Aix en Provence with kids
Strolling through the bustling daily market in Aix-en-Provence is a pure pleasure that delights the senses. The vibrant colors of fresh produce, fragrant herbs, and handmade goods create an inviting atmosphere that encourages visitors to explore every stall.
Introduction to Aix-en-Provence
While we love spending a few days in major European cities to see the big sights, our family has found time and time again that we prefer vacationing in mid-sized cities. Cities of 200,000-500,000 offer plenty of great dining and entertainment options without the crowds of the major tourist destinations. It’s also easier to dig into the local culture and avoid the tourist traps of larger cities. Of the mid-sized European cities we have visited, Aix en Provence is our absolute favorite. Nestled in the heart of the Provence region of France, known for lavender fields, vineyards, and the sunny southern coast, Aix is a college town with a beautiful, bustling, pedestrian-only Old Town. We spent 10 days there on our trip around the world. We were living on a budget at the time, so we spent our mornings visiting the markets, butcher, and boulangerie to gather our ingredients for the day. We prepared most of our meals at home with the amazing locally sourced ingredients we gathered in the morning. During our second visit, we splurged on meals out and shopping that we had to refrain from during our first visit. Both trips were wonderful in their own way. If you are interested in digging into the delicious, sunny culture of Provence, Aix is a great stop to add to your France itinerary or a perfect destination on its own.
A stunning view of Places des Cardeurs at night from our charming rooftop terrace in Aix-en-Provence, where the soft glow of the streetlights illuminates the cobblestone streets below. The atmosphere is both tranquil and vibrant, inviting us to take in the beauty of this historic square under the starry sky.
What makes Aix so unique?
There are four things that make Aix one of the most perfect cities in the world (in my opinion). While many other French towns also boast amazing food and wine, the combination of the following factors give Aix a unique feel.
The morels we discovered were a delightful and unexpected surprise that reminded us fondly of home while we were exploring the beautiful town of Aix-en-Provence.
1. The markets.
If you don’t love markets, you probably shouldn’t take any of my advice, because we are obviously very different people. The daily Aix-en-Provence Famer’s market is open 7 days a week in Place Richelme. The Place Richelme, which is filled with diners chatting over glasses of wine in the evening, is miraculously turned into a bustling market with stalls teeming over with fresh produce every morning. It truly is a treat for all the senses with bountiful piles of bright red strawberries, tomatoes, and seasonal beauty, stalls of cheese and olives, and the smells of lavender and fresh baked bread mixing through the air. Beyond the farmers market, there are specialized markets for used books, flowers, and everything in between. I could go to the markets in Aix everyday for the rest of my life and I don’t think I would ever grow tired of them.
The vibrant weekly book market in Aix-en-Provence offers a delightful variety of used and old books, along with an impressive selection of posters, historical documents, and beautiful pieces of art. Visitors can spend hours browsing through the eclectic collection, uncovering hidden gems that reflect the rich culture and history of the region.
2. The pedestrian-only old town.
I love wandering through a city without worrying about my children being hit by a car. There are very few reasons to leave the pedestrian-only part of Aix. You can spend days wandering through the old, cobblestone streets and exploring the city. It is my favorite place to shop in the world with a perfect mix of affordable fashion and luxury intermixed. Pop in for gelato or coffee at any point. Or stop and have a drink at a cafe lining one of the beautiful plazas.
The pleasant car-free streets of Old Town provide a safe and enjoyable environment for you and your children to explore the city's rich history and lively culture.
3. The college town vibe.
The presence of multiple institutions of higher learning in Aix gives the town a unique energy. There are always young people sitting at cafes or chatting outside bars at night. The presence of so many students also helps to support the shopping and food scene in Aix, which is robust but less tourist focused than other European cities.
The plazas and streets of Aix-en-Provence are filled with cafes every afternoon and evening.
4. The climate.
With an average of 6 or less rainy days a month and moderate temperatures, there is a very good chance that your vacation in Aix will be sunny and beautiful. As much as I strive to embrace less than ideal weather, I’m just happier when it’s sunny and 75. The climate also produces amazing wine and all of the fresh, delicious produce that makes Number 1 possible. Markets and outdoor cafes just hit different when the weather is also perfect.
Getting to Aix-en-Provence
By plane: Marseille is an easy 40 minute drive or train ride away from Aix and offers daily non-stop flights to 13 major hubs.
By train: The rail system in France is robust and easy to use. If you are visiting multiple cities in France, you can take a train directly to Aix with high speed and local options.
By car: Your itinerary in Aix should dictate your decision to have a car or not. If you plan to stay in the city, it is absolutely not necessary and is actually a hindrance since parking isn’t cheap and cars are not permitted in the city center. That being said, we chose to have a car both times because we wanted to be able to easily explore the surrounding towns, vineyards, and natural beauty of Provence. Having a car allowed us to visit areas that would have been logistically difficult to reach otherwise. (See “Things to do” below for more on this.). If you are staying in Old Town and driving, be sure you have an idea of where the nearest parking garage is to your hotel/airbnb.
A view of our roof top terrace in the center of Old Town Aix-en-Provence.
Where to stay in Aix-en-Provence
I highly recommend staying in Old Town (Vieille Ville) so that you can walk to everything you want and need. During our first trip, we stayed in a three floor apartment on Place des Cardeurs with a roof top terrace. While this location made driving and parking difficult, once we were settled in, it was perfect. We were just around the corner from the daily market and we really enjoyed listening to and watching the comings and goings in the Place des Cardeurs below. We always look with places with some outdoor space so that we can enjoy some adult time outside when ever the kids need some down time.
On our second visit, we stayed closer to the periphery of Old Town along the Place de Trois Ormeaux. The slightly more peripheral location was quieter and allowed easier access to an affordable parking garage outside of Old Town but was still a short walk to everything. We have used Airbnb to find great places both times. There are several small hotels in Aix if you prefer that option. With a family of five, we find an apartment a more comfortable fit and prefer to have a kitchen for cooking.
When to visit Aix-en-Provence
Anytime from April to early November is pleasant in Aix with slightly cooler weather and the possibility of windy days in the shoulder months. The summer is a bit more crowded with local European tourism at its height in July and August. If you want to see the lavender fields in full bloom, you will need to visit in July and deal with the larger crowds. Some vineyards may close in September for the harvest and there is the possibility of business closures in August due to European holiday as well. We visited the first week of May during our first trip and the first week of June our second trip. Both were perfect and not crowded.
9 Things to do in Aix-en-Provence:
The flower market in Aix-en-Provence is not to be missed.
Visit the markets.
Even if you don’t want to buy anything, walking around the stalls, talking to the vendors about their products, and seeing what the region has to offer makes for the perfect morning. I love the farmer’s market, the flower market, and the used book market. For a complete guide to the markets in Aix, I used this post: https://www.lelongweekend.com/aix-en-provence-market-days/
A family favorite with the beautifully curated Emilie and Compagnie in Aix-en-Provence
Wander around Old Town and enjoy the diverse shopping.
Two of my favorite stores to visit with kids are Emilie et Compagnie and La Taverne de Platon. Beyond that, no direction is needed. Just let yourself wander.
Lunch at the near perfect L'incontournable on Place des Trois Ormeaux
Have a drink or bite to eat at a cafe in one of the many beautiful Places around town and people watch.
We absolutely loved L'incontournable on Place des Trois Ormeaux but there are hundreds of cafes along the larger plazas as well.
Magnums of Provencial Rose chilling in the fountain at L'incontournable on Place des Trois Ormeaux
Have a picnic at a park.
A picnic always feels special, but it is even better in France where a plethora of flavorful cheeses, spreads, charcuterie, fresh fruits and vegetables, wine, and freshly baked bread are always available. There is no better way to spend half a day than a morning trip to the market where everyone gets to pick their favorite things followed by a picnic in a park. This is an especially good activity for a Sunday when everything is closed in Aix. They take the Sabbath seriously there, so get your ingredients early. We visited the mid-sized, centrally located Parc Jourdan, the small neighborhood Parc Rambo, and the larger Promenade de l’Arc which required a short drive. They each have a unique charm.
A picnic with wine at Promenade de l’Arc. Aix-en-Provence May 2022
Visit an art museum.
I thoroughly enjoyed both art museums in Aix. They are a nice, manageable size for kids. The Musée Granet has a larger collection and is in a beaiutiful building. Do not skip the Jean Planque Collection. Jean Planque was a fascinating figure in the art community in France and his collection is one of the best curated collections I have encounter. The Caumont Mansion and gardens are also a nice, quick stop. The exhibits there are mostly temporary, so check to see whose a work is on display, but the garden and cafe are worth a stop even if you aren’t interested in the art.
Resting our legs on a bench in the gardens of Caumont Mansion
Visit local wineries.
Spring growth on the vines at Chateau La Coste just outside of Aix-en-Provence
I think that the art walk at Château La Coste is the top winery experience with kids anywhere. (Click here for our dedicated post on Chateau La Coste) The sculptures are so unique, varied, and amazing. The grounds are beautiful. The wine tasting is free. And they have delicious grape juice for the kids that makes it feel special for them as well. Read our post on Chateau La Coste for more info. We also thoroughly enjoyed La Cavale where we sampled wine and a few other delicacies on their picturesque patio. For a wild card experience, visit Domaine Le Renard where they have shocking good, affordable wines and barnyard pets for the kids to meet. Just be warned they do not speak English and it took a few tries to get them to answer the door bell. Once we made it inside the hospitality was genuine and the experience was unforgettable.
“Drop” 2009 - Tom Shannon: This massive metal ellipsoid is suspended in the air with magnets and can spin and wobble when gently pushed
Day trip to Cassis and the Calanques.
Cassis is a beautiful town on the Mediterranean. It boasts a handful of restaurants, a small beach, and a few shops. The real draw to Cassis, however, is the Calanques. The sheer, white cliffs of the Calanques that border the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean are breathtakingly beautiful and absolutely worth the trip. Click here for our post on hiking the Callanques for more info.
A view of a Calanque with a small beach at Port d’EN Vaut, near Cassis in the Calanques
Visit the lavender fields.
We never got a chance to see the lavender fields in bloom due to the timing, but I hope to return in July to see them in their full glory.
Bailey kayaking in the Gorges du Verdon in Southern France.
Day trip to Gorges de Verdon.
If you are in Aix during warm weather, you should consider planning a day trip to the Gorges de Verdon. The Gorges de Verdon is a popular warm weather destination about 1.5 hours from Aix that is known for its bright turquoise water. The river is fed with glacial run-off from the Alps and the minerals in the glacial run off give the water its unique turquoise color. This is a great trip to take if you are looking for a little more action for your kids and its another chance to see more of the lovely French countryside. See our full post on Gorges de Verdon for more info.
Where to eat in Aix-en-Provence:
L’incontournable: This open air cafe set in Place de Trois Ormeaux chills magnum bottles of rose in the fountain in the center of the plaza. There is nothing more inviting. Literally everything we ate there was perfect. The beef tartare, ceviche special, and perfectly done soft boiled egg were some of our favorites.
The beef tartare at L’incontournable is near perfection, located in Place de Trois Ormeaux. Aix-en-Provence
Le Ramus: In general, when travelling, it is best to pick a restaurant in a smaller plaza instead of choosing a place that sees more tourist traffic. I found this place using this rule and it payed off. Everything was reasonably priced and delicious. The burger was one of the best I have ever tasted.
Bailey relaxing at the table at Le Ramus. Excellent food, surprising large portions, tucked back from the main streets in Old Town Aix-en-Provence.
Le Four Aixois: This is a casual place that serves wood fired pizza. The foccaia was a bit underwhelming but the pizza was solid.
A wood fired pizza loaded with mushrooms at Le Four Aixios in Aix-en-Provence
Pro-tips:
Learn a little French and start each encounter with an attempt to speak French. Most people speak English but they seem to appreciate it when tourists make the effort to speak French. I find the locals in Aix much more friendly and tolerant of my broken French than in Paris. When entering any establishment, always greet the owner/hostess with Bon Jour or other appropriate greeting before asking for anything else.
Stay in Old Town but park just outside. It is impossible to navigate driving in Old Town and there are variable rules throughout the day/week. I could never figure them out. Find a garage just outside of Old Town and walk to your apartment/hotel.
Visit the markets and take a picnic.
Be aware that most things are closed on Sunday and get your provisions in the morning or the day before.
Get a fresh baguette everyday you are in France. They are meant to be enjoyed fresh and won’t keep. Just eat at least one a day.
Make lunch your big meal. Many restaurants offer cheaper prix-fixed menus during the day and the kids are usually in better spirits at noon than they are at 8:00. Also, wine at lunch just hits different in France.
Rent a place with a terrace for people-watching while the kids sleep/recharge.
Wineries in Provence specialize in Rose, which hits well anytime of the day.
Final thoughts on Aix-en-Provence:
If you are looking for an action-packed destination, Aix is probably not the place for you. If, on the other hand, you are looking to immerse yourself in all of the best things that French culture and cuisine have to offer, Aix is a perfect choice. I am able to get to the best version of myself there; the one that doesn’t rush through things, enjoys the moment, and takes the time to ask the vendors about their wares. Share your experiences in Aix in the comments below.
Our roof top terrace in Places des Cardeurs, where we enjoyed many a meal, and nights under the stars.
