14 days in Italy with Kids
Enjoying a picnic at Caseficio Cugusi outside of Montelpulciano Italy
There is so much to see in Italy and you could easily spend months there and still feel like you hadn’t seen it all. From picturesque beach towns along the coast to bustling ancient cities, massive snow capped mountains in the Italian Alps, and the fertile rolling hills of Tuscany, there are endless beautiful and vibrant places to visit in Italy. Given the time it takes to get there from the US, I would plan on spending at least 2 weeks there to make your travel time worth it. Based on our experience traveling for 6 months, I don’t generally recommend spending less than 3 days in any location. With that in mind, I would recommend picking 4 or 5 places to see in Italy.
View from our roof top terrace in Minori. Amalfi Coast, Italy
Our Itinerary in Italy
Our trip to Italy was actually two trips, with two different families, that we combined together. This resulted in a very inefficient itinerary for us. We had planned to fly from southern Spain to Rome at the beginning of the trip. Due to the high cost of rental cars in Europe in 2022, we ended up buying a car in France instead. At that point it was too late to change the whole itinerary and we had to drive from Malaga, Spain to Rome. See our itinerary and map of our trip below:
If all had gone smoothly, we would have driven 43 hours. If there is one thing you remember from this post, however, it should be that EVERYTHING WILL NOT GO AS YOU PLAN. When traveling abroad, things will go wrong and there will be setbacks. Learning to deal with adversity, be spontaneous, and overcome is one of the most important lessons of travel. On our way from Malaga to Rome, we stopped for a quick overnight in Bordighera, Italy. Shortly after leaving Bordighera in the morning, we stopped to fill the car with fuel. Unfortunately, the colors of the pumps and names of the various fuels were new to Joey and he accidentally filled our diesel engine with gasoline. One minute later we found ourselves stranded on the side of the highway in the middle of nowhere.
Stuck on the side of the Interstate at the SOS station trying to get help after putting gasoline in the diesel engine. Diano Marina, Italy
After a few moments of despair, a tow truck, a taxi ride, and two nice men that spoke only Italian, we ended up in a train station in Diano Marina with only our essential belongings. What should have been a 7 hour drive turned into a 12 hour train ride and we abandoned our car and other belongings at the closed auto shop in Diano Marina. Luckily it was easily fixed two days later when the shop opened, but this meant that Joey had to take a train back to Diano Marina and then meet us in Venice. Bottom line, be very careful when selecting your fuel and be ready to come up with a new plan on the spot.
Settling in on the train after abandoning the car in Northern Italy
A better itinerary in Italy
Although I have no regrets, if I were to plan a trip to Italy, I would do things a little differently next time. This route avoids unnecessary travel and is more efficient. It also cuts out a couple stops. Although I loved Cinque Terre, it was too crowded and I liked the Amalfi coast better. We stopped for one night to eat at Amerigo in Savigno. If you aren’t particularly into truffles, you could probably skip this one. Here is a proposed itinerary that hits all the high spots and only requires 10 hours of driving. You could fly directly to Venice or to Milan and take a train to Venice. You can then fly out of Naples at the end of the trip.
Venice: days 1-3
Florence: days 3-6
Tuscany (Montepulcianno): days 6-8
Rome: days 8-11
Amalfi Coast (Minori): days 11-14
Transportation tips
Do not plan to drive in the major cities.
There are strict regulations on driving and parking in the metropolitan areas and you will unknowingly accrue huge fines. If you plan to drive to Florence or Rome, you will probably need to park outside the ZTL (limited traffic zone) and take a train into the city. The rules on the ZTL are different for every city. Study them well when you make your plans. Parking is difficult everywhere in Italy. If you are going to drive, be sure to check with your Airbnb/hotel before your arrival to secure parking.
You will not need a car in Venice, Florence, or Rome. Plan to take a train from Venice to Florence.
Getting to Venice isn’t easy but that is what makes it so unique and amazing.
It is an island (actually many small islands) that can only be accessed by boat and there are no cars there. You will need to take a vaporetto (public boats, the water version of buses), a water taxi, or a gondola from the train station into the city proper. Check the vaporetto schedule and maps in advance to plan your travel. Taxis and gondolas are faster and more direct but also more expensive. You can find more on the vaporetto here: https://actv.avmspa.it/en/content/orari-servizio-di-navigazione-0
You will need a car to explore Tuscany.
There are buses between all the small towns, but they are infrequent and unreliable. Driving gives you the best experience.
Getting from Naples to the Amalfi coast is terrifying and there is no easy way.
We drove the narrow winding roads and it was terrifying. On the other hand, taking a bus on those roads sounds even more terrifying. A third option is to take a ferry from Naples to the Amalfi coast. You will not need your car once you are in Amalfi because the ferries between the towns are frequent and easy to use.
Beware of speeding in Italy.
Speeding is monitored by electronic cameras and you may get a surprise ticket months later once you get home.
In early June, Rome and the Colosseum were still relatively uncrowded, but COVID may have contributed to the smaller crowds.
When to visit Italy with kids
June-August are the peak months for tourism in Italy. I would recommend visiting in the shoulder months of May and September if at all possible. If not, join the masses and visit in the summer or take a chance on a unique experience and visit in the winter. I love the idea of visiting in the off season. Just be sure to check on availability of tours and hours for restaurants and museums which may be more limited in the off season.
The terrace of our Venice Palazzo overlooking the canals.
Venice
Why visit: Venice is my favorite Italian city. There is no other place like it. The constant sound of water lapping onto the sides of the canals, feeling of being transported to another time and place, old palazzos, and unique traditions make it 100% worth the trouble of getting there. If there is one place on this itinerary that you should absolutely not remove for your first visit to Italy, it is Venice. In addition to visiting all the big sights (St. Marks Basilica, St. Mark’s Square, The Rialto Bridge, The Grand Canal, and the Bridge of Sighs) below are some of my favorite things we did in Venice.
Wendi enjoying the prosecco from the 3rd floor window of the palazzo. Venice Italy
Favorite things to do in Venice:
Walk around the city at night. With less people and the magical glimmer of light reflecting off the water, night time wandering the streets of Venice was the absolute best.
Visit Murano and see a glass blowing demonstration. Murano is quaint, colorful, and filled with beautiful glass shops. We stopped in for a 5 euro glass blowing demonstration at Ellegi Glass which was super cool and loved by all.
Visit a mask shop off the main streets. We loved Venice Art on Calle die Fabbri, 4706
Visit the morning seafood and produce market and attempt to prepare locally inspired dishes with fresh ingredients. We stayed in an amazing palazzo with the most ornate dining room I have ever seen. In honor of the dining room, we prepared a 4 course meal consisting of a fresh fava bean and parmesan salad, mussels in champagne, roasted white asparagus, and risotto nero with squid. This was my most memorable and amazing night in Italy.
Eat gelato. Our favorite gelato in Venice was Gelateria Artigianale Murano.
Pro Tip:
Pack light for Venice. You will have to take a train and a boat to get there. Then, you will likely have to walk a long distance to get to your lodgings over uneven cobblestone streets. Pack a bag that you can carry.
The boys enjoying an uncrowded Galleria dell'Accademia. Florence Italy
Florence
Why visit: Florence is cleaner, quieter, and more manageable than Rome but is still packed with history and art. Although the churches in Europe are often the most famous destinations, I personally don’t get that into them. Of the famous churches I have seen in Europe, however, the Duomo in Florence is my favorite (to be fair, I skipped the Vatican and thus cannot compare). I also found the Piazzas of Florence to be some of the best. There is sculpture everywhere and the architecture is stunning. Finally, The David.
The still waters of the River Arno reflecting the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy.
Favorite things to do in Florence:
See the Ponte Vecchio at night. Its beautiful light reflecting off the Arno is magic. Again, wandering around European cities at night is my very favorite thing to do. Seeing the Duomo in the stillness of the dark is much better than the hectic light of midday.
Visit The David at the Galleria dell’ Academia. We lucked out and visited Florence on free museum day. Although there can be long lines on the free days, we arrived right at 6:15 PM (last admission was at 6:20) and walked right in. The David is really huge and impressive close up. It is worth it. If you can’t hit a free day, be sure to buy your tickets in advance. They sell out.
Do a walking tour. We did a self guided tour which included The Florence Cathedral (the Duomo), adjacent Giotto's Campanile, the Palazzo Vecchio, Basilica di San Lorenzo, Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, and Piazzale Michelangelo. We stopped at interesting shops and for gelato along the way and ended up walking around 11 miles that day. You could also book a walking tour in advance if you prefer more structure.
Visit the gallery at the Palazzo Strozzi. I messed up and it was too late to get tickets to the more famous Uffizi Gallery. Instead, I found this temporary exhibit “Let’s get Digital” at the Palazzo Strozzi. It was so unique and a nice change from the classic art we had been seeing all over Europe.
Beer, pizza, and folk music and dancing at Giardino dell'ArteCultura. They have a whole schedule of free summer events here and we just happened to be nearby and check this one out. This was, hands down, one of our most unique experiences in Italy and we were the only tourists there (always a good sign).
Eat Gelato. Our favorite spot in Florence was My Sugar.
Pro Tips:
Book tickets to the Uffizi and Galleria dell’ Academia a month in advance during peak season.
Check garden hours carefully. We attempted to visit the Boboli Gardens and Giardino Bardini and they were both randomly closed.
A selfie from the rooftop terrace overlooking Tuscany. Montepulciano, Italy
Montepulciano
Why Visit: While Florence is also in Tuscany, I think it is worth it to add one of the smaller Tuscan towns to your itinerary in order to experience these magical, historical, walled cities and the gorgeous agricultural landscape. And also, wine. Here is an article I used to pick one. https://www.tuscanynowandmore.com/discover-italy/favourite-towns-villages/prettiest-small-towns-tuscany
In the end, I settled on Montepulciano because I could find a large, affordable place to stay there with two families. It was lovely and everything I expected.
The moon rising over Montepulciano, Italy
Favorite things to do in Montepulciano:
Drink wine and visit wineries. Beware, most of these require advanced booking. We were fortunately able to visit Icario on short notice.
Picnic and/or cheese tasting at Caseficio Cugusi. What is better than eating cheese and drinking wine in a magical outdoor landscape. Not much. Be sure to book this in advance too.
Do the free underground cellar tour and wine tasting offered by Cantina Ercolani. This was super cool and truly free (although we spent plenty in their shop after the tour).
Walk from Montepulciano to Montichielo. This one is about the beautiful journey, not the destination. Arrange a taxi to pick you up in Montichielo if you can. We were hoping to catch a bus, but there was none. Alternatively, you will have to hike there and back (or send the fastest dad to run back and pick up the car, like we did).
Visit the Museo della Tortura. This place was wild and terrifying. Here you can see torture devices used during the Inquisition and medieval times. Warning: this probably isn’t appropriate for young audiences. It left me haunted but was a good reminder of what religious power can look like in the wrong hands.
Wander around the beautiful small town, visiting the Piazza Grande, Duomo, Fortezza Medicea and the fun nearby playground.
Eat at Le Logge del Vignola. We ponied up and did the full tasting menu. This was our best meal in all of Italy. Romantic, unique, and perfectly executed. Get you reservations in advance.
Day trip to a neighboring town from the list above. We didn’t have time for this but will do it in the future.
Eat gelato. Sgarbi Gelato Natura had the best gelato in all of Europe. We ate gelato everyday, so I consider us true experts. Google currently says it is temporarily closed and I really hope that is just a seasonal thing.
A small bottle of wine from Cantina Ercolani, a local winery with a tasting room and tours in town.
Pro Tips:
Rent a car so that you can drive through the countryside and see the full beauty of Tuscany.
Book your wine tastings far in advance. Unlike other countries, most wineries in Tuscany don’t offer drop in tastings.
The boys relaxing by Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi in Piazza Navona. Rome, Italy.
Rome
Why visit: Rome was, honestly, my least favorite destination in Italy. That being said, I don’t think you should skip it because of its profound cultural importance. Due to our delay getting to Rome, our time was cut short there and I feel we barely scratched the surface. The craziest and coolest thing about Rome is that the Romans continued to build layer upon layer of city on top of the old ones. As a result, there are random ancient buildings all around you. The living history is what makes Rome so cool.
Wilson at the Colosseum
Favorite things to do in Rome:
Tour the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. We did a combined tour with Show Me Italy. Unfortunately, we had a very unengaging tour guide, so I cannot recommend this company. Book a tour of both 6 months in advance. Getting into the colosseum without a tour guide can involve waiting in long lines. I think it is worth it to pay the extra money for this one. We selected a tour that includes the arena floor but there are even more in depth tours available.
Do a walking tour, self guided or with a guide. Again my preference is at night or early in the morning to skip the crowds.
See the Trevi Fountain at night. This was my personal favorite site in Rome.
See the Pantheon. It is free to visit but you may have to wait in line.
Visit the “Welcome to Rome” exhibit. This was a dark horse favorite and is a good jumping off point for exploring the city. This is a 3D digital experience that gives a great, digestible historical overview of Rome and all its layers.
Tour the Catacombs of St Callixtus. This was a great tour for kids, giving us an inside glimpse into the complexity of ancient catacombs without being too scary. Our tour guide did a wonderful job engaging the children while making this tour educational.
Jessica and Wendi at the Roman Forum
There are tons of other things to see in Rome that we didn’t get to see and you should find another more in depth blog post to help you plan your time there! I like this one. https://mamalovesitaly.com/visiting-rome-with-kids/
The Trevi Fountain at night on our evening constitutional
Pro tip:
Book your tours way in advance for Rome because everything sells out early.
Swimming at Spiaggia Tordigliano Grande. Amalfi Coast
Minori (Amalfi Coast)
Sunset from the roof of our house in Minori. Amalfi Coast Italy
Why Visit: The Amalfi coast is breathtakingly beautiful. The Mediterranean waters are warmer here but still crystal clear. The colorful towns are wedged into the valleys of towering mountains where they meet the sea. There are lemon trees sprinkling the scent of their blossoms on top of this natural beauty like sprinkles on ice cream. It’s deliciously lovely. We picked one of the smallest of the 13 towns designated a UNESCO world heritage site along the Amalfi coast. We also visited Amalfi proper and Majori. They were both gorgeous, but we were glad we picked a quieter spot for our stay there.
Favorite things to do in Minori:
Our chartered boat for a day cruise along the Amalfi Coast
Hire a private boat to take you along the coast to see the other towns, swim, snorkel, and enjoy the best views of the Amalfi Coast from the sea.
Rent an umbrella and beach chairs and spend the day swimming, relaxing, and having Aperol spritzes while the kids play.
Take the ferry to visit one of the other towns. We chose to visit Amalfi which was much more lively than Minori.
Eat lemon pasta at Bar Antares. This place looked like a tourist trap but the lemon pasta was out-of-this-world delicious and creamy. We tried to replicate it with no success and they would not tell us their secrets.
Eat pastries at Pasticceria Sal de Riso. You can’t go wrong here.
Do a tasting and guided tour of Liquorificio Mansi Carlo. We failed on this one as they were not open even though google said they were. I would try contacting them to arrange a tour before visiting.
Wendi and Sarah enjoying the ferry ride back from Amalfi to Minori
Pro tips:
Stay in a smaller town for a glimpse into the lives of the locals and less insanity.
Be ready for a wild drive or consider taking a ferry to get there. You will not need your car once you arrive and can take the ferry easily from town to town.
Possible day stops during your travel:
The Porticoes of Bologna
Bologna. Cool mid sized town with arcades, beautiful plazas, and the two leaning towers.
The Sacro Bosco (Sacred Grove) also known as the Park of the Monsters and Garden of Bomarzo. Just look up some pictures. It speaks for itself.
Pompei. Be sure to book a tour in advance here to see the famous city buried in the ashes of Mount Vesuvius.
The Boys in Orcus Mouth at the Sacro Bosco. Bomarzo, Italy
Final thoughts on traveling in Italy with Kids:
When we traveled around the world for six months, we invited friends and family to visit us. Everyone wanted to join us in Italy. It is no secret how awesome it is. In addition to the places shared here, the east coast, mountains of the north, and unique culture of Sicily could each be a trip in and of itself. Share your favorite places in Italy in the comments below.
