No Bedtimes, No Borders: A Family Travel Blog

View Original

Visiting Kentucky's Red River Gorge with kids: Tips from a mother who has spent over 200 days there

Enjoying the evening at Hanson’s Point on our overnight backpacking trip.

Why visit the Red River Gorge?

With towering sandstone cliffs, over 150 named sandstone arches, unique and lush flora, hiking trails for all ability levels, over 3,000 bolted sport climbing routes, and rushing mountain streams all around, the Red River Gorge (RRG) is a nature lover's paradise.

Wendi climbing in the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, one of the private climbing properties run by the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition

If you have ever visited Gatlinburg, TN and wished you could have seen it before it became so crowded and over-developed, the Red River Gorge is the place for you.  The Red River Gorge gets its name from the river that runs through it, but the geology of the area is more complex.  The region of the Red River Gorge was formed as part of an ancient river delta where eroded sand and debris that washed down from the nearby Appalachian mountains settled and hardened over time to create a unique layer of quartzose sandstone known as the Corbin Sandstone layer.  Several million years later, there was an uplifting of eastern Kentucky to form the Cumberland Plateau.  This resulted in extensive fracturing of the Corbin Sandstone that created the famous vertical cliffs of the Red River Gorge Geological area.  Over time, the Red River and tributaries carved channels into the sandstone.  Additionally, older and weaker rock at the base of the cliffs eroded away, creating the famous arches and rock shelters of the gorge. 

Wendi and Wilson under a classic Corbin Sandstone overhang on our Mill Creek Point property in the Red River Gorge.

It is a truly unique and beautiful landscape that provides sweeping views and a natural playground for outdoor enthusiasts. If you are a rock-climber, the Red River Gorge should absolutely be on your bucket list.  This place was made to climb. If you are not a rock climber, however, there are many other ways to enjoy and appreciate this special place.

The different components of the RRG briefly explained:

The Red River Gorge is a name that is broadly used to refer to the entire geological area which includes the gorge itself as well as an amalgamation of public and private lands.  The Natural Bridge State Park, Daniel Boone National Forest, Red River Gorge geological area, Clifty Wilderness, and the Sheltowee trace all make up the area lovingly referred to as the Red River Gorge.  Several privately owned lands are also open to the public for climbing after signing a waiver and paying a small fee.  It is important to know where you will be hiking/climbing because the rules are different for each area.  For more info on this, see separate post on “General Info for Hiking in the RRG.”

The kids looking over the Gorge through Double Arch


When to visit?

One of the great things about the Red River Gorge is that it is a four season destination. A large part of the RRG is technically a temperate rainforest.  This makes the weather more moderate, with temperatures slightly lower in the summer and slightly higher in the winter than surrounding areas. The spring is magical with trilliums blooming, moderate temperatures, and the rivers and streams swiftly flowing. 

A white trillium bloom, found in the early spring, and less commonly found than the red trillium

The fall offers spectacular displays of color provided by the deciduous forests and comfortable temperatures with better chances of dry days for hiking and climbing.  Spring and fall are both perfectly lovely at the RRG and they, rightfully, get most of the traffic and hype. 

The winter, however,  is honestly one of my favorite times at the RRG.  With the leaves gone from the trees, the views are more spectacular.  The rhododendrons, moss, and evergreen trees keep the forest quite colorful even in the winter. And I love a cozy cabin with a fire and hot tub after a brisk hike. 

The family enjoying a snow filled week at Mill Creek Point.

Finally, there is summer.  Summer is my least favorite season at the RRG, but you can still find enjoyable things to do in the hotter months and the rhododendrons usually bloom in early summer.  All of the hikes along the creeks, which are mostly spring fed, stay cool even in the hottest months.  There are ample swimming holes for cooling down.  Mill Creek lake and the Red River offer opportunities for kayaking, SUP, and canoeing.  Finally, there is the cool, massive cavern of Red River Gorge Underground which stays the same temperature all year round.  Just be aware that snakes and stinging insects are out and about in the summer.  In summary, you can visit the RRG any time of year depending on your preference.

Rhododendrons in bloom during the early summer.


Where to stay?

In general, I recommend staying near Slade, KY, close to the Natural Bridge State Park and Miguel’s pizza.  This will put you in the center of the action and cut down on the time you will spend in your car. Do be aware that the different areas for climbing and hiking are spread out and often there is no direct way to get to them.  As a result, you will likely be doing a bit of driving to see all the RRG has to offer.  

Our cabin, Mill Creek Point, which sits on 50 acres minutes away from Natural Bridge state Park, Mill Creek Lake and Miguels.

Cabins:

Cabins have sprung up all around the RRG during the last decade.  You can easily find cabins of all sizes and price levels on VRBO, AirBnb or by going through one of the several local property management companies.  I personally think that our cabin, Mill Creek Point, is the absolute best ;) and it is available for rent through Stayover rental properties, but there are tons of properties available if ours is booked.  Just make sure you check the location (some properties will require a lot of driving) and read the reviews.  Before we bought our own property, we had some mediocre experiences with some of the rentals.

Our back country campsite near Hanson’s Point in the Red River Gorge Geological

Camping:

There are several public and privately owned campgrounds in the area.  

Koomer Ridge offers tent camping within the national forest and is the only developed camping technically within the Red River Gorge Geologic Area.  Inside the Natural Bridge State park, there are two campgrounds: Whittleton Arch and Middle Fork Campground.  

There are a number of privately owned campgrounds that each have their own vibe. Miguel’s campground is famous as a budget hang out for climbers.  Lago Linda, Red River Adventure Campground, Callie’s, and Land of the Arches Campground are other privately owned spots for tents and RV’s.  Finally, you can camp anywhere within the Daniel Boone national forest/ RRG geological area as long as you are away from the trail, water sources, rock shelters, and picnic areas.  Just be sure to practice leave-no-trace principles.

One of 3 A-Frames tucked into the ferns at our glamping site in the Gorge.

Glamping:

The Canopy Crew offers some unique, high end glamping sites built into the canopy.  If you want one of these, be sure to book in advance.  We have also recently developed our own glamping area, nestled into a fern covered hollow on our property.  Check out A-frames Under Canopy for the immersion in nature of camping with a roof over your head and heating/AC.

The Pavilion at our glamping site, which has bathrooms, showers, and outdoor kitchen, wood burning stove, games, and more…

The Hemlock lodge: 

The official state park lodge offers hotel rooms within the Natural Bridge State Park with a pool, restaurant and easy access to hiking trails in the state park.


Top things to do:

Wendi enjoying the sun on her face on a cold crisp day at the top of Natural Bridge. That day we had the bridge to ourselves.

1. Climb to the top of Natural Bridge:

A total of 7 different trails lead to this 78 foot sandstone arch. For spectacular views, climb to the top.  Just be aware that there are no rails on the top of the arch and you should keep a tight hold on your kids.  The most popular trails to the top are Balanced Rock and The Original Trail. You can combine the two as a loop or add on the Rock Garden Trail instead.  If the hike to the top is out of your physical fitness range, there is a skylift that you can take to the top.  

2. Hike one of the many trails:

There are so many options! My top 5 hikes are the following: 1. Gray’s Arch  2. Rock bridge and Creation Falls 3. Auxier ridge 4. Double Arch 5. Sky Bridge.  These vary in difficulty, danger, and payout.  See our separate post on my top 5 hikes for additional info.

3. Kayak at Gorge underground

This is a truly unique experience.  Gorge Underground acquired an abandoned limestone mine that fell out of use when they could not figure out how to keep the springs from filling it up with water.  It is a massive underground cavern filled with clear spring fed water and stocked with massive lake trout.  You can ride a boat or paddle a kayak, SUP, or clear bottom kayak through the cavern.  The cost varies from $49-$80 depending on the day/activity.  Be sure to book this one in advance.

The launch point into the old limestone caverns at Gorge Underground.

4. Eat at Miguel’s Pizza

Miguel’s Pizza has been credited by some with making the RRG what it is today, and I believe it.  Miguel’s is a family run pizza joint with humble beginnings when the couple started making homemade bread and raising their own animals and produce in the 1980’s.  Gradually it became a hub for climbers developing the routes in the RRG in the mid 1980’s.  After intense days ascending new routes, everyone would meet at Miguel’s to eat, camp, and hang out around the fire.  This place is a case study on building community and deserves at least one visit from anyone traveling to or through the RRG.  Miguel’s pizza goes best with an ALE-8, Kentucky’s unique soft drink. And this is one of the only places you can still get it in the classic returnable green bottle.  For more on Miguel’s, see this great article from Outside magazine. How Miguel’s Pizza Made the Red River Gorge What It Is Today

Wilson enjoying an Ale-8-one at Miguel’s while we wait for our pizza.

5. Go Ziplining

Red River Gorge Ziplines offers 5 ziplines.  We haven’t done this one yet, but I have heard good things. It doesn’t come without cost, however, as it is $100 for adults and $90 for kids. Advanced reservations are strongly advised.

6. Rock Climb

If you have the gear and experience, the RRG is a fantastic place to climb and quite possibly the best sport climbing in America.  If you are planning to climb unguided, I highly recommend picking up a guide book.  There are multiple good guidebooks available in local stores or online. The Red River Gorge North ($28) and Red River Gorge South ($33) are two of the best. Muir Valley is well protected and a good spot for beginners, but there are sooo many options.  If you don’t have the gear and expertise, there are several guide agencies that can take you climbing for the day. One the most welll known is Southeast Mountain Guides who also have an onsite Via Ferrata that is a good intro to climbing.   

Gus climbing a beginners route on Recess Rock in Muir Valley, one of the best climbing areas in the gorge for all levels.

7. Drive through Nada Tunnel

This is a cool, single lane tunnel that was built to transport lumber via train in 1910.  It’s another RRG classic.  Just be on the look out for oncoming traffic and the ghost of a former worker that reportedly haunts its walls.

8. Visit the Kentucky Reptile Zoo

This is the kind of place that looks like a tourist trap but is surprisingly awesome.  The Kentucky Reptile Zoo has a huge collection of venomous snakes and are a major worldwide source of venom for medical research and the creation of anti-venom.  Compared to other attractions, this place is a steal at $12.50 for adults and $8.50 for children.  They have several enclosures tucked behind the Slade Visitors Center that house various venomous and nonvenomous snakes.  They also offer educational lectures at 1:00 and 3:00 PM.  

A western green mamba at the Kentucky Reptile Zoo behind the Slade visitor center.

9. Rent a kayak or SUP on Mill Creek Lake

Mill Creek Lake is a clean and beautiful man-made lake that is part of the Natural Bridge State park.  It is stocked with trout and has a reputation for being a good spot for fishing.  (we have never caught a single fish there). For reasons I still don’t understand, you cannot swim in the lake, but you can rent SUPs and kayaks to paddle around and enjoy the lake.  If you accidentally fall in, there probably won’t be anyone watching.  Red River Adventure is in charge of the rentals. No advance reservations are needed for these.  Just show up and find them in the parking lot.  It’s $50 for a tandem kayak and $35 for an SUP or single kayak.

Wendi and I with our French exchange student Morgan fishing on Mill Creek Lake.

10. Kayak/canoe on the Red River:

Water levels and difficulty vary greatly throughout the year.  Red River Adventure rents kayaks and canoes for paddling on the river.  Contact them about water levels and the best sections to paddle.

Gus and Wilson leaping from “Jump Rock” on the Red River. A popular place to swim in the Gorge.


Where to eat:

Miguel’s Pizza:

see above for the full description.  The food is good but the atmosphere is everything.

La Cabana Mexican Restaurant:

Surprisingly delicious American style Mexican food.  This isn’t an authentic taco joint run by Mexicans, but it is a place with fresh ingredients, well-cooked food, and friendly owners and staff.

A great place to stop for massive chocolate brownie sundays after a long day hiking in the Gorge.

The Ice Cream Shop:

Classic Dairy Treat with soft serve and traditional ice cream.  We love the Brownie Sundae but you can’t go wrong with the banana split.  I find that ice cream provides great incentive for the kids on a long hike. 

Skybridge Station/The Brick:

These are both owned by the same person and right across the street from each other.  The Brick is a recently remodeled building that was originally a general store built in 1909.  They serve ice cream, pastries, and coffee.   They also sell beautiful locally made pottery from Turtle Farm Pottery.  Skybridge station serves craft beer on tap and simple food fare (think burritos, hot dogs, grilled cheeses).  They also do a fun trivia night on Tuesdays and host live bands. See their facebook page for live show information. 

Hop’s:  

This place offers window service and outdoor dining.  They also occasionally have live music and always have a large beer selection. It has changed owners since I last ate there, but is still worth a stop for a beer and a sandwich.

Red River Rockhouse:

I have heard this place is great.  They emphasize local and fresh ingredients, but they don’t take reservations and the wait can be long.  We have never stuck it out as a family of five.  This might be a better option for smaller parties.



Pro Tips:

Buy your groceries on your way (at the Stanton Kroger if you are coming from the west) or bring them from home

Aside from a well-stocked Shell gas station, there is nowhere to buy groceries in Slade.  The Kroger in Stanton is the closest legit grocery store and it's a good 25 minutes from Natural Bridge State Park.  Campton also has a Dollar General and a Save-A-Lot for basic necessities, but the fresh produce and meats are less available.  

Be aware of your surroundings and keep your kids close when hiking

At least one person dies per year from falling off a cliff in the RRG. It is usually related to alcohol use but sober people occasionally fall and die too.  There are very steep drop offs along many of the popular trails.  Keep your kids and pets close and consider avoiding these trails if you have very young children.  ( I will include this information in my trail guides.)

Download trail maps or buy a physical map to take on the trails

You cannot rely on cell phone reception in the RRG.  I love this map of the area https://www.outragegis.com/trails/product/red-river-gorge-backpacking-map/

Wendi’s collection of high quality maps covering the Red River Gorge and the entire Sheltowee Trace

Avoid going off trail and getting lost

Again, many people have to be rescued in the RRG by the Wolfe County Search and Rescue team, largely because people use unmarked, unofficial trails.  If you choose to use one of these, be sure you have clear instructions and a good map.

Always carry rain gear

Remember, this is a rainforest and isolated storms are common.

Try to do the popular hikes on a weekday, early in the morning, or in the evening

The most popular hikes can get crowded and parking can be tough at peak times.  I prefer to hike the most popular hikes at sunset, usually starting the hikes around 4 and finishing around 7 or 8.  The parking lots are usually thinning out by that time, sunset views are the best, and dusk is my favorite time in the forest.  If you are a morning person, early in the morning would also be great.  

Enjoying sunset from Auxier Ridge.

Be aware that the different state and nationally managed parts of the RRG have different rules and requirements

The rules in the state park are much more strict than the national forest.  For example, no dogs are allowed in the state park (except for Whittleton trail and Henson’s arch trail) but they are allowed on leash on the national forest trails.

Final thoughts: The Red River Gorge is a great spot for a weekend getaway or week long vacation.  It’s getting more and more popular and we are all worried about what it will look like in 20 years.  This is all the more reason to book your visit now.  Share your favorite trails and RRG spots in the comments below.

See this gallery in the original post